My trip to ELSI in November began with a flurry of scientific inspiration. During the flight to Narita airport from Los Angeles, I made a breakthrough in my research on the structure of oceans in large icy moons, figuring out a simple way to understand my previous laboratory measurements. This new insight would set the stage for work I would complete at ELSI. My flight also prepared me for working with Jun Kimura, my host and long-time collaborator. While I traveled across the Pacific ocean, creating a new data set for simulating the effect of ammonia on the structure of the ocean in Saturn's gigantic moon Titan, Jun was busy at ELSI computing how Jupiter's largest moon Ganymede might have changed its ocean composition through time, and how this might influence its ability to support life. This picture captures us talking about how to combine our insights and predict the internal structures of icy worlds, in ways that can be tested by future missions like the JUICE mission to Ganymede, or possibly by a future mission to Europa.

The focus I found during that long flight persisted during my visit. As I navigated Tokyo's rail system, I was surprised by the calm I felt amidst the bustle of activity. Walking the picturesque streets in my spare time got me thinking about new ways to apply my work to understanding oceans in icy worlds. Staying at the international house was an absolute pleasure. My small apartment there afforded both comfort and convenience. I was also pleased to discover that the institute has started offering Japanese language instruction to its english-speaking visitors. I gladly took advantage of the opportunity, and by the end of the trip I was *almost* comfortable ordering and paying for my bento lunch from the nice lady down the street. I found cultural immersion stimulating in a way that left me refreshed and helped me focus while sitting at my desk in the guest office of the beautifully renovated ELSI building.

Jun Kimura and me working in ELSI's tatami room

I grew fond during my brief visit of the frequent collegial lunch discussions in the ELSI public space, and the daily afternoon coffee tradition that has emerged. Thinking about it brings back the sound of the 3 pm bell, and the feeling of sitting in the tatami room enjoying the smell of fresh cedar while exchanging ideas about life in deep oceans on other worlds.

Steve Vance
Planetary Chemist and Astrobiologist
Europa Clipper Acting Staff Scientist
Jet Propulsion Laboratory, California Institute of Technology